Why not choose easy gears on your road bike
One thing that really bugs me about road cycling is there is often an emphasis on being tough, like riding with hard rather than easy gears on your road bike, and being eager to ride up long or steep climbs. I’d like to put it on record that I choose to ride with easy gears on my road bike and I choose to avoid very long and very steep climbs. I do accept that as a Sydney-dwelling road cyclist I need to ride up hills but I don’t seek them out. I ride them because I have no choice.
It
also fascinates me that male riders often focus on the technical mumbo jumbo of
riding, and women choose to follow their feelings about bikes. I’m not so keen
on the technical stuff either but there are a few things that both women and
men should learn about to enjoy their cycling more. One of those key things is ladies bicycles their gears, both how
to use them properly but also how to choose the right ones for your riding. If
you want to know more about how to use them read my previous post, but read on
if you want to understand how to choose the ones for you.
There are two key
things you need to know more about to make your road bike gears easier, and by
easier, I mean gears that will help you ride up whatever hills or slopes you
need or want to traverse.
If you find yourself
struggling to ascend a hill, and have to zig-zag to stay upright or get off and
walk, you might need to rethink your gearing.
Two principle things
come into play – the chainrings that are attached to your cranks (near the
pedals), and the cassette which is the thing with all the metal teeth in the
middle of your rear wheel.
What are the chainrings?
Most road bikes have
two chainrings on the front with a certain number of teeth. When you wheel your
new road bike out of the shop and it has Shimano gearing it is likely to have
either what is called compact chainrings – 50 teeth on the larger ring and 34
on the smaller, or semi-compact which has 52 teeth on the large, and 36 on the
smaller. The smaller the number of teeth the easier it is to ride so I choose
50/34 on my bikes, and I’d recommend it to any rider who wants to get up hills
with ease.
The larger chainring
gives you bigger, harder to turn gears that move you further per pedal
revolution so it’s suitable for higher speeds, while the smaller chainring
gives you gears that are easier to turn but move you a shorter distance per
pedal revolution so it’s suitable for lower speeds, including riding uphill.
How about the cassette?
Now to the cassette on
your rear wheel where the gear ratios work out the opposite of on your
chainrings. In other words, smaller cogs (fewer teeth) on the rear correspond
to harder pedalling, and bigger cogs (more teeth) correspond to the easier
pedalling.
The most popular
Shimano cassettes have 11 teeth on the smallest ring and anywhere from 25 to 34
on the largest, with 34 being the easiest one. Older riders will tell you they
used to have only 21 teeth on their largest ring and that combined with a steel
frame and large front chainrings made it really, really hard to get up hills.
Thankfully the modern-day bike designers have changed their philosophy making
road cycling more accessible.
How can I change the gears on my road bike?
In
an ideal world, both chainrings and cassettes would be easily swapped out but
it’s not that easy. Some front dutch
bicycles can be changed like
the most recent versions of Shimano chainrings can be easily changed but older
models are not always that easy. So if you want to move to compact from bigger
gearing you might just need to change the individual chainrings which are
really affordable or you might have to replace the whole crankset which is more
expensive.
The same thing applies
to rear cassettes. For some gearing, it’s as simple as replacing the cassette
but with others, you need to replace the rear derailleur (the thing that
changes the rear gears), and sometimes the chain.
Road bike rear
derailleurs often come in “short-cage” and “medium-cage” varieties. Most
short-cage rear derailleurs can handle no larger than a 28-tooth cog, while a
medium-cage rear derailleur, you can go up to a 34-tooth cog.
Your bike comes
equipped with a chain that is long enough to be able to wrap around your
largest cog and your largest chainring at the same time. As you shift into
smaller cogs and/or chainrings, it’s the job of the rear derailleur to take up
that extra “slack” in the chain. How much slack they can handle depends on the
length of the “cage,” which is the part of the rear derailleur that hangs down
towards the ground.
When I decided to move
to an 11-32 rear cassette from an 11-28 to make climbing easier, I had to
change my rear derailleur, cassette and chain. This cost me a couple of hundred
dollars but to me, it was well worth it. I suggest you head to your favourite
local bike shop to ask them for advice on how to make the gears easier on your
bike. And if they tell you not to do it, then go to a bike shop that will help.
What gears do the pros use?
And
if you think I’m alone with my preference for easier gears, you might be
surprised to hear that many girls
Bicycles the same sort of gear
ratios for the big mountain stages of the Tour de France and other hilly races.
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